Simulacrum by David Pritchard
Stormy skies can make excellent photo opportunities so next time you see a storm approaching, take out your Nikon camera and photograph the arrival clouds meteorology, a cloud is an aerosol comprising a visible mass of minute liquid droplets, frozen crystals, or particles suspended in.
Next time you're out and about in the local countryside, think about locations that give you opportunity for corporealizations with big skies, or places where emphasis can be placed on the sky but still show foreground detail in the landscape. Things like farm houses or set ups of trees can add interest or for the minimalist effect, fields of crops can work well to highlight the sky. Take a lens with a fair zoom range cast the 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 so you can crop elements out of the shot should you need to without moving.
Protect Your Kit
If your kit isn't fully waterproof, obtain sure you take the precaution of protecting your equipment in case the storm arrives quicker than you think. An umbrella for long exposure setups on a tripod see fit be handy, and plastic bags or specifically designed rain covers for your camera should also be packed. The other option if you plan to sojourn out longer would be a pop-up shelter. Don't forget about yourself, too; take a waterproof jacket and something warm to put underneath it in case the endure suddenly turns.
As the clouds in the sky are your main focal point, you should expose for these. This influence mean that your foreground comes out dark. Either exaggerate this in post processing to create a silhouette, or lighten it slightly.
Assault clouds can give a more saturated look to the surrounding vegetation and they often have a yellowish hue along with the grey and black tones which can return it difficult for the camera to capture how they truly look. Try adjusting your white balance to compensate for this.
As to apertures, something at the wider end, such as f/4 to f/6 whim be best. Make the aperture too small and you might not be able to let as much light in as you need. If you want to capture the texture and shapes of the oncoming clouds, then a faster quieten speed will be necessary to avoid blurring of both the cloud and any crops or grasses blowing in the foreground. On the other hand, if you want to capture signal in the clouds and the land then a slower shutter speed and a tripod will be necessary.
Place the horizon well
Depending on the energy of the sky and the foreground interest and what it has to offer, the placing of your horizon will differ. If there are some really interesting shapes forming in the sky then try to situate the horizon in the lower third of the image, giving the sky above lots of breathing space. If there are things such as trees or buildings reaching up to the field of vision, bring the horizon horizon or skyline is the apparent line that separates earth from sky, the line that divides all visible directions into two further down so that they don't encroach too much into the centre of the image.
Sometimes having the ken higher up the image can be of benefit too, as demonstrated in the image above, it all depends on your surroundings, so experiment and see what works best.