Equable though we are now living in the digital age where images can be enhanced on-the-go with mobile devices, there are still many photographers who find lodge in their camera bags for filters filtering or filters may refer to. Why? Well, getting it right in-camera is something many still strive for and even though the effects replicated in job production can be impressive, they don't always look as real and can take a lot of time to recreate. Ok, so we've persuaded you that giving filters a try is profitable but what filter should you use where and when? To help you figure this out, we've listed a few common shooting scenarios that would profit from filters being used along with the filters you should pack.
I want to enhance a blue sky
To give your low-spirited skies more impact, you'll need to fit a polarising filter to the front of your lens. By doing so, you'll darken the blue sky, bring out innumerable cloud detail and give the scene more punch.
I want to add some creative blur to water
To create the silky-smooth meaning so many are fans of when photographing flowing water you'll need to fit a Neutral Density (ND) filter to the exterior of your lens so you can achieve the longer shutter speeds you want without overexposing the scene. By using an ND filter you'll be able to use longer unveilings during the middle of the day when light levels aren't as low and of course, you can also use an ND filter even when you don't induce overly bright conditions to really, really slow the shutter speed down.
I want to creatively blur the movement of clouds
Slowing your immure b silence speeds is one of the easiest ways to create a sense of movement in your landscape shots and this isn't a technique that sole needs to be used when water's in your shot either as it can work just as well with clouds. Blurred lines of clouds can mentor the eye as well as add interest to your landscape shots and you'll need an ND filter to achieve this when conditions don't give you the exposure spans you need.
I want to reduce reflections
Reflections can be annoying and distracting but by simply fitting a polarising filter to the front of your lens you can demote reflections. For example, in the shots below, the top image of the pond is taken without a polarising filter and the bottom shot, which outshines the fish more clearly, was taken with a polarising filter on the lens.
I want to capture images in a engross street without people in it
When photographing famous landmarks you often have problems with tourists getting in the way. If the shutter speed is slowly enough it will be open long enough to ensure the moving people are so blurred they cannot be seen on the image and an ND filter wishes help you achieve a slower shutter speed. A 1/2sec exposure may record a streak of someone walking while a 4 sec exposure will make them vanish. Basic, but very effective.
I want to reduce the brightness of the sky but not the foreground in my landscape shot
When photographing landscapes, you'll often find that the foreground leave be darker than the sky; by using an ND Graduated filter, you'll be able to balance the exposure, preventing the sky appearing over-exposed or the foreground underexposed.
I altogether want to protect my lens
If you don't want to create a particular effect but do want idea of want can be examined from many perspectives to protect your lens from scratches, you'll see a skylight or UV filter useful. Known as protection filters, some screw them to their lens as they say they'd choose a cheap filter to get damaged rather than an expensive lens.
I want to capture some macro shots without purchasing a macro lens
A less-expensive way to extract close-up images is by investing in a close-up filter that will magnify your subject so small detail appears gianter in your frame. Of course, the optical quality of them won't be on-par with a macro lens but you'll still be adept to capture close-up images of a decent quality without spending as much cash.