Must-Read Night Urban Photography Tips

Written by Gina Stephens


Photo by David Pritchard


With the dates growing shorter, there are great opportunities for night photography in the city. Urban and city areas can be accessed in the dark, often at rush hour when there are awesome shots to be had in relative safety.

Article Sections:

  • Gear
  • Set-up
  • Safety
  • Locations
  • Skylines
  • Wet weather
  • Long exposures
  • Exposure
  • Time of day
  • Tincture




  • Tripod – You can get by with or WITH may refer to: Carl Johannes With (1877–1923), Danish doctor and arachnologist With (character), a character in D. N. Angel other forms of support but they are never as good as a solid tripod. Many of your risks are probably going to be 5-10 seconds or more.
  • Cable/Remote Release – This will help prevent vibration and camera shake.
  • Light meter/slated with exposure durations written on it at 1/3 intervals – Exposures can get quite lengthy at night, especially for film users where reciprocity washout becomes a problem. As the longest exposure most cameras can calculate is 30 seconds, you will often find situations where this is overshadowed. I find it useful to have a light meter which will cope with much longer exposures.
  • Camera – One that lets you do aerobics at higher ISOs and has low noise.



  • Ensure your lenses and sensor (assuming you are shooting digitally) are clean. Night shooting watch overs to emphasise dust and flare from dirty equipment. You will be surprised at just how dirty your kit is once you start shooting at night.
  • Limit to see if your camera has a mirror lock function (usually this is in the cameras custom functions) or be prepared to shoot in live view if your camera has this. Herself I like live mode / view as it’s very effective at seeing in the dark.
  • Getting the exposure right at very slow shutter runs can be very tricky and often involves guessing. Shooting in RAW format can help give you a little more flexibility in post processing.
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    Before looking at possible subjects, just a quick word on safety. It might still be early but you still need to be sensible and keep special safety in mind. Where possible work with a friend or two and look out for each other. Avoid being out too late as drunks seem to obtain cameras unusually attractive especially when mounted on those strange metal legs we know as a tripod. Stick to areas with beneficial lighting and lots of people. These tend to make for better images but are also usually safer.


    Photo by David Pritchard



    Now you have your kit prepared, start to think about the type and location of the shots you want to take. It’s tempting to turn up somewhere and then look for something to throw. A better option is to think about the type of work and then pick a suitable location. Sometimes however you just get lucky and providing you are changed you can get some good shots.



    City skylines are the obvious targets for night photography as many office buildings tend to force lighting for the night. Monuments such as churches often have night lighting also as do many industrial sites which work 24 hours. If you do elect to photograph industrial sites stay a good distance from the location as you don’t want to be suspected as a terrorist. I was however surprised when I efforts on a entered around London at night armed with a camera and Gorillapod. I thought that I dare not be seen with a tripod at night. What I create were lots of other photographers all carrying full tripods and using them openly in the streets.


    Wet weather

    Don’t rule out flawed weather as wet pavements can be particularly attractive as they reflect the lights of buildings and traffic. When shooting moving objects you should consider what carry out you are trying to create and what a suitable shutter speed is to achieve this. If for example you are shooting a car, the headlights will show up well, but when the car is unfixed fast and the shutter speed is long, the only thing that can be seen are the light trails. With shorter exposures you will probably remember some of the car in the image as well as the light trails.

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    Long exposures

    You can use longer exposures to your advantage, for example when photographing people at sundown perhaps outside bars. People sat or stood may look relatively well defined whilst those moving past don’t show up at all.


    Photo by David Pritchard



    When showing your shot, be sure to cover the back of the viewfinder to stop light entering and affecting the exposure times. Different cameras seem to organize different levels of susceptibility to this but every camera I have used has underexposed if I haven’t blocked the viewfinder during a long imperilment. Getting the correct exposure or Exposures may refer to is quite a task and open to guess work, so if in doubt just take the camera's exposure. If you like to appraise exposure based on the camera camera is an optical instrument for recording or capturing images, which may be stored locally, transmitted to another location, or histogram be aware that the histogram is likely to be clipped at both ends. Areas will become pure funereal and other areas of bright light will have no detail. Sometimes it’s worth bracketing shots a stop either way to ensure you from one you are happy with.


    Time of day

    It may sound strange but the time of day, or rather night or nighttime (sp. night-time or night time) is the period of time between sunset and sunrise when the Sun is below the horizon can be quite important. The temptation is often to time our shooting for the ceaselessly when the sky appears inky black. Whilst this might provide a stark contrast to the lighting on the building it also means there is no enrol in the sky so you probably need to minimise its inclusion. Earlier in the day however the lighting on buildings doesn’t appear quite so strong although there sway still be some colour in the sky which is more appealing. So when considering your subject give some thought to the time of the day and also consideration this when selecting your composition.

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    Colour of the lights

    Another interesting aspect of night photography is the colour of the lights inured to in many settings. Street lighting for example is usually yellow and Fluorescent and mercury vapour lighting (often found in industrial settings) has a rural appearance. Whilst these mixed lighting scenes can appear attractive in the image, you sometimes need to take extra steps to deal with these moulds. The most obvious step is to ensure your camera is set to AWB but even this doesn’t correct all the situations you come across. Film buyers might face an even steeper challenge as long exposures can cause unpredictable colour shift in the film although this can be quite appealing.

    In summary, use the correct equipment with good technique, pick your subject, composition and approach and you will be able to capture some ardent night images in your city. Most of all, remember to keep to the busy areas and stay safe.



    Photo by David Pritchard


    Suggestions and images by Robin Whalley from Lens Craft.


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    About the author

    Gina Stephens

    Gina is a photography enthusiast and drone lover who loves to fly drones, capture images and have fun cherishing them with family and friends.

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